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CX Customization and Modifications
Started by LRCXed at 06-10-2008 9:21 PM. Topic has 10 replies.
  
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 06-10-2008, 9:21 PM
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LRCXed
 
Joined on 05-15-2008
Sacramento, California
Posts 618
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![Yes [Y]](/cs/emoticons/emotion-21.gif)
Shortening the cables
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Iv'e been looking for shorter cable sets to put on a CX500 80 custom with lower shorter bars. Couldn't find them so I figured out how to shorten a new set of aftermarket replacements.
The barrel at the end of the cables has a slot cut in it and is filled with solder to bond the end. I melted it out with a small tourch set at low heat, and used an air hose to blow out the solder. After mesureing the exact length I wanted to shorten it, I pulled off the threaded end, pulled out the cable part way, and cut the houseing and the cable the SAME lenth, adding 1/8 inch for the cable end so it could be fraid over inside the barrel end slot before soldering it back together.
The key point next was to try to find the right flux to clean the cable and barrel with so the solder would flow and bond. After several different types that didn't flow, I remembered that muratic acid is what is used to soldier galvanized metal flashing for roof jacks, rain gutters, etc.., so I tried it, SURE ENOUGH, it worked. I pressed the threaded end back on the housing, threaded the cable end thru the hole in the barrel end and let it soak in the muratic acid till the bubbleing stops. It will clean between each cable strand without heating it up like you need to do with paste flux. Brush it off with a fine wire brush to clean off the residue and put the end back in the vice, Fray the very tip of the cable out about a 1/16 of an inch to the left and right, so it lays to each side of the slot in the barrel.
Putting the end in the vice acts as a heat sink so the heat disipate and does not melt the cable or the barrel fitting.
Make sure the cable is straight before soldering.
You don't need to use much heat, but make sure you heat the barrel from the side and don't heat the cable directly. It wouldn't take much heat to break down the strenth of the cable or melt it. The solder will flow very well into the slot binding the cable together with the barrel. I had to file it smooth a little to get rid of the excess solder so the barrel fitting turned smooth in the carb end after installed.
I did a couple practice runs with the leftover cut off end of the cable to make sure of the flow and bondability of the process. I would suggest you do the same before the final fit of the cables your intending to resize.
It works great and I don't have excess cable hanging out any more.
This works on the clutch cable as well. Just make sure you know the length you need and go for it.
Muratic acid is cheap. You can get it at any pool supply shop or hardware store for a few bucks. Just make sure you clean up any spills and get the rags out of your garage and into the trash after you do the job. The fumes and evaporating spills will rust any metals in the area if you leave it sit without cleaning it up.
I hope this helps someone thats tired of eccess floppy cables.
Good luck and ride safe.
If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/
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06-11-2008, 4:25 AM
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BearCX
Joined on 03-11-2008
Roseworthy, Sth Aust
Posts 218
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Wow, ...detailled. Can't go wrong. Thanx.
If you're still in control...You're not going fast enough.
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06-11-2008, 7:15 AM
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Eurovee.
Joined on 12-29-2006
Euroland
Posts 282
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Re: Shortening the cables
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I make/repair/modify my own cables,too.
I learned from a cable maker who made me a cable for my very first bike i owned after i broke the clutch cable about 10 minutes after buying it!!!
As you say,the key is to `flare` the end of the inner wire so that it fits into the countersunk nipple and use flux to get good adhesion/flow of the solder.
Its tricky to get it to stick to old,oily or oxidated inner wire,though.
Might look out for some of that acid.
I`ve used it on clutch cables and no,the nipple will not pull out.
I had one clutch cable that lasted about 10 years!
I generally make my own nipples from the unthreaded shank of brass wood screws.
I have pics,but my browser is the incompatible type;
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/esox/Engines%20and%20parts%20etc/100_1779.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/esox/Engines%20and%20parts%20etc/100_1778.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/esox/Engines%20and%20parts%20etc/100_1777.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/esox/Engines%20and%20parts%20etc/100_1781.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/esox/Engines%20and%20parts%20etc/100_1780.jpg
CX650 Eurosprout
CX500 Eurospurt
GL650 Silverthing
CX/GL 500/650 CX-periment
22 years and 130,000 miles a CXian...
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06-11-2008, 8:10 AM
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wridley
Joined on 06-28-2007
Didsbury, AB, Canada
Posts 138
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Willy
1982 CX500C
1980 CX500D
1981 GL500I (wife)
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06-11-2008, 8:21 AM
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PWG in Lowgap NC
Joined on 01-08-2008
Minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway
Posts 733
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Re: Shortening the cables
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I know solder will not stick to the steel cable, The key to that way working must be the wedging effect of the flaired cable being held by the solder which will stick to the brass. Great idea!
http://httassociation.com
82 GL500 / 66 MGB Trike "Old Yeller"
05 Suzuki S50 "Plaything"
ANY WARM DAY ABOVE GROUND IS A GOOD ONE
(unknown senior citizen)
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06-11-2008, 9:37 AM
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tntchitwood
Joined on 03-02-2008
Pine Knot, KY
Posts 510
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Please excuse my ignorance, but why will solder not stick to steel?
'82 Silverwing Chopper
'02 750 Shadow
http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/29599/ShowPost.aspx
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06-11-2008, 2:52 PM
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LRCXed
Joined on 05-15-2008
Sacramento, California
Posts 618
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Re: Shortening the cables
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It will stick, trust me. Get an old cable that you won't use and try it. Don't need to put an end on it to experiment. Like I said though, the KEY is to CLEAN the inside of all those steal stands. The muratic acid does this very well.
When your heating up anything and useing paste flux, it draws the contaminant to the surface and allows the solder to flow and contact to each metal.
Because the cable will melt so quikly while waiting for this amount of heat to build up, you need to use acid to clean it BEFORE you try to flow the solder.
Some cables come with solder that has flown down the strands to far after assembly. Thats why they are stiff at the ends sometimes. If it didn't stick to metal, it would just flex as normal.
The flaring is just good insurance.
If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/
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06-11-2008, 2:53 PM
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Eurovee.
Joined on 12-29-2006
Euroland
Posts 282
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Absolutely - solder *will* adhere to steel - i`ve repaired leaky CX fuel tanks and thermostat housing-to-elbow coolant pipes using solder as well.
Old-school techniques taught to me while at Tech College (motor vehicle tech).
Thanks Willy for putting the images up.
CX650 Eurosprout
CX500 Eurospurt
GL650 Silverthing
CX/GL 500/650 CX-periment
22 years and 130,000 miles a CXian...
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06-11-2008, 3:01 PM
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LRCXed
Joined on 05-15-2008
Sacramento, California
Posts 618
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Good idea on the brass screws Eurovee.
Brass welding rod would work too. I'll add that to the memory banks!
If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/
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06-11-2008, 4:48 PM
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PWG in Lowgap NC
Joined on 01-08-2008
Minutes from the Blue Ridge Parkway
Posts 733
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Re: Shortening the cables
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Then we are not talking about the same type of solder.
http://httassociation.com
82 GL500 / 66 MGB Trike "Old Yeller"
05 Suzuki S50 "Plaything"
ANY WARM DAY ABOVE GROUND IS A GOOD ONE
(unknown senior citizen)
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06-11-2008, 8:55 PM
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LRCXed
Joined on 05-15-2008
Sacramento, California
Posts 618
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Re: Shortening the cables
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I used regular solder that I had left from replumbing my house.
If your going to do something, do it right, don't do it half as@*d.
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/
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Honda CX500 & G... » CX500 GL500 Tra... » CX Customizatio... » Shortening the cables
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