Electrical issue?

Technical Help Forum

Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 06-25-2008, 8:50 PM
Alright, so both of my coils have cracks all the way along them.  I know this could very well mean they're bad, but my bike has a lot of strange problems that don't seem to relate to something that the coils would effect.

I was driving today home from work.  The bike always needs choke to start, which doesn't make much sense to me since it's been about 90 degrees here, so the engine has no good reason to be cold.  When I started going, I noticed it sounded like it was backfiring a bit, which is one problem I started with.  As I was driving the bike started riding worse and worse.  I stopped several times and took off with no problem, but finally the bike died on me at a stop light.  It started up again, needed some choke to run, of all things, but got me home.  After this it was backfiring quite a bit and sounded like only one side was firing and was running very loud.  I pulled in and it puttered off to death outside my garage.  I parked it for about 3 hours, then went and started it.  It ran low...with 3/4 choke it was still idling at 1500.

I'm starting to understand how the engine works, but when it comes to electrical issues, I have no clue whatsoever where to start.

I appreciate any help.  Thank you for reading.

Forgot to mention that my butt was getting really hot on the ride home, a 10 minute drive.  The temp guage isn't working..  Why would the bike be getting hot that fast?  It's not leaking coolant...the radiator grille looks like it needs a good cleaning or replacement.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 06-26-2008, 5:23 AM
I'd get some better coils as you know they are weak.This may well cure your starting problems.The fact that you need to choke the bike to start could been because of a weak spark because of the coils?

A cooling system flush wouldn't harm.Use the search function with 50/50 white vinegar shep in it for info on this.Also replace the thermostat.Take the old one to an Auto parts shop and you can get a standard car one for under a 3rd of the price of a so called,"Honda" one.Same with the Rad cap.






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Re: Electrical issue?


lanispet 06-26-2008, 10:19 AM
i would definitely recommend replacing the coils, however, i do have one other suggestion...

The choke reduces airflow coming into the engine, which richens the mixture. If it's running better with the choke on, then your engine is normally getting too much air or too little fuel.

On older bikes, this condition is very often caused by a vacuum leak. On a CX/GL, the first place i'd look is the rubber boots connecting the carbs to the cylinder heads. If they have a bunch of cracks in them, or are visibly pulling away from either the carbs or the intake manifolds coming off the heads, you'll need to seal them to get the bike to run well. There are a number of ways to do this that have been discussed on the forums here.

If you've ever noticed the bike to be making something of a hissing sound, then it's pretty much guaranteed that a vacuum leak is at least part of your troubles.

Massively hacked-up '80 CX500C bobber/ratbike- "Doom Cookie"

Re: Electrical issue?


monki 06-26-2008, 10:39 AM
 Shep wrote:
Also replace the thermostat.Take the old one to an Auto parts shop and you can get a standard car one for under a 3rd of the price of a so called,"Honda" one.Same with the Rad cap.



I just replaced my thermostat... the 82 Honda Civic thermostat is compatible.  I also managed to plug in my temp sensor while I was in there.  It's a pretty easy fix... it'd have to be if I did it myself.  The clymer manual says you have to take off the radiator and header pipes.  That's a dirty lie.  Just move the coils out of the way.

'82 GL500i (Grover)

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 06-26-2008, 11:24 AM
When I installed the carbs the last time, and every time I've put them in for that matter, I've had to pry off the boots, which means a lot of twisting.  I noticed that the boots were looking like they were developing cracks, so I wrapped them in electrical tape.  Now I'm talking about the front rubber connection to the cylinder heads.  Would the rear rubbers cause issues like this?  If so, I'll wrap them in the tape as well.  I'm not sure why it would only do this on start though.  After driving a bit, aka warming it up, it doesn't need to choke, normally.  On that last ride I had to give it choke to get it home though.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 06-26-2008, 11:34 AM
I'm hesitating to replace the temp guage, as I think that'll also mean replacing wires.  I've got a couple of wires cut under my coils, and I think it's going to be a pain replacing them

Here's the link to a post I made concerning those wires.  Also it has a picture of my cracked coil - 1 side.  The other looks very similar.

Click Here

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Randall-in-Mpls 06-26-2008, 11:52 AM
The green wire (should have a red stripe, I think) cut off at the air dam is the reason your temp gauge isn't working.



It comes from the temperature sending unit in the thermostat housing.  The one missing from the cloth insulator next to the the rubber tube (should be dark blue with a red stripe, IIRC) comes from the oil pressure sensor.  Both should connect to matching wires under the seat.

R


'78 CX500 - The Black Maggot

CX500 Factory Service Manual
1978 CX500 Parts Manual

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 06-26-2008, 4:13 PM
Would 14 guage cable work for both of those? The green wire looks like it might be pretty small.

And would these being cut have anything to do with my bike getting hot as mentioned previously? Or is the cooling system mechanical, not electrical?

Thank you!
-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-06-2008, 12:18 PM
So I messed around with my bike until it finally started working semi-properly.  I bought a multimeter but haven't tested anything electrical yet.  Where should I start and how exactly do I use the thing...what should I be looking for?

This doesn't make much sense, but it's true.  I put on two new hose clamps on the rubbers connecting the carbs to the heads, intake manifolds?, and it ran exactly the same.  I then piddled a bit, looking for anyplace that might have had some sort of air leak and couldn't figure out anything... Keep in mind I have no idea what I'm doing really, just learning and piddling.  I then added some gas...no luck still.  Then I put some sea foam in the gas and it ran perfectly.  Just as well as it did before all of these problems.  Then I turned it on today and it idled a little bit low, around 1k.  It's probably a temporary fix, and I'm wondering what might be the cause and how I could fix this.

Any help is great appreciated.  Thanks for looking.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 07-06-2008, 1:19 PM
1ct you can chck the chargning system.Set the meter to 20v dc and put across the battery and run the bike at idel.Both my Cx give around 14..2v at 1100 rpm.This is a good general test of the charging system.

another check is the stator,

http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cx500/stator/

You can also check the continuity and grounding of the 3 Yellow wire bolck under the seat.These are the stator coils.There should be continuity between them all and none of them should read ground to the frame.
My tester has a continuity setting that beeps if there's a circuit.




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Re: Electrical issue?


Ayal 07-06-2008, 7:41 PM
The Haynes manual recommends an ignition test in which you remove the spark plucs, look thm over for fault, fit them into their connectors, lay them on the cylinder head and ensure good electric contact.  (I actually hrld them in place with elec tape to forestall any vibrations).  Many warnings about not holding these by hane in danger of shock... Turn kill switch to 'on', leave gas valve off... hit the starter shortly.  Should see fat blue sparks.
New spark plugs are cheap and easy to relace, if you did not already.
As for the multimeter, I'd set it to 20 volts as Shep said, tape it to the gas tank, and watch it while riding because charging is done by different coil portions at different devs and also motor temperature may play a role.  Good luck.
Ayal


Strive to learn something new every day

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-07-2008, 7:58 AM
I tried doing this yesterday and found that my multimeter has no 20v setting.  It may help to know that it's analog.  It has 10 50 250 and 500 I believe.

Yesterday I took my bike out for a ride down the highway and had problems.  It got up to about 70, then started acting funny, got loud, gave me a few surges, and killed.  I hit the starter and it started back up as I was going, in fifth gear, but only ran on one cylinder.  I drove it back home at its max comfort speed of 45.  If I asked it to go faster, it just grumbled at me..  When going up hills that max speed was lower, down it was higher.  When I got back to town, I had to sit and think for a minute if I wanted to go into a makeshift road or turn around and take another road home.  As I sat, it idled at 1k on the 1 cylinder.  When I turned it around and gave it gas, both cylinders were firing again and it got me home just fine.  Outside the garage it idled at 1100ish.

Does this help to guide me at all?

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Ayal 07-07-2008, 8:10 PM
This is beyond the knowledge I have acquired so far in my first season of riding/tweaking. 
Do you think dirty air filter or dirty gas filter can be restricting high fuel mix flow?
I hope you get one of the experts to get involved here.

Strive to learn something new every day

Re: Electrical issue?


Anonymous 07-07-2008, 10:45 PM
a little history on the bike would help. did it work fine and then all of a sudden start working bad? did it sit for an extended peroid of time?it sounds like dirt in the carbs.

Re: Electrical issue?


Anonymous 07-07-2008, 11:07 PM
Not thats its of utter importance or anything
as the cables can all be say., black or red as long as they are connected properly
but the temp sender wire is usually green/blue
( a cut off fragmant can be seen in the above pic.btw).
The blue/red wire is the oil pressure sender wire

Reg

Re: Electrical issue?


Graywolfs02 07-08-2008, 6:08 AM
 Gotfalls wrote:
I tried doing this yesterday and found that my multimeter has no 20v setting.  It may help to know that it's analog.  It has 10 50 250 and 500 I believe.


Hi Gotfalls

Here is a bit of "Meter reading 101"

Below is my trusty analog meter from Radio Shack. Its been with me for many years and works well.
Your meter face may look different, but the operating of it will be the same.




On my meter you'll see 4 scales. One green, one red, and two black.
I will be talking about the 1st black scale with the 5, 10, 25 and 125 markings.

Below is the selector switch on the meter.



The switch has a number of selections, but for now I will be talking about the area marked as "DCV" (DC Voltage)

On the selector switch DCV has these choices: 5, 25, 125 plus 500&1K. For use with the bike, we'll only look @ the 5 to 125 range.

As you've probably guessed the 5, 25 and 125 corrospond with the same markings on the meter face.
Setting the switch to "5" you look at the marking using the "5" as the upper end reading, which in this case you would read a maximum of 5 volts.
setting it to 25 you look at the scale and now you read the upper end as 25 volts and so on.
When setting the meter range, if you are not sure of how much voltage you'll be looking at, ALWAYS set your meter to the larges setting and work down from there. Trying to read a large voltage ( say 50 volts on the 5 volt scale) can damage the meter.

This pic shows trying to read a 9 volt battery on the 5 volt scale. The meter needle goes all the way to the right ( known as "full scale deflection")



To properly read the voltage of the 9 volt battery I've set the selector to the 25 scale.



In the pic above the needle is now between the 5 and the 10 on the "25" scale. On this scale, each mark is read as .5 (half) volt. So in this pic, the battery voltage is showing  7.5 to  8 volts

So to be able to check the voltage at the battery using your meter, set it on the "50" setting and then read the scale that has "50" as the highest reading.

If you have any questions, or if I have just completely confused you, email me using the button below and I'll try to answer any of your questions.

Greg




1978 CX 500
Minnesota

Ride Safe, Ride Fast, Ride Far

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-08-2008, 6:09 AM
I bought the bike in April.  The PO said he replaced the battery, spark plugs, and gave the carbs a good cleaning.  The bike pretty much stopped working at the end of April, so I took out the carbs and cleaned and rebuilt them.  I also installed an inline filter on the gas line.

The bike was running fine before all of this started happening.  I was on my way home from work one day and the engine quit on me at a light.  It needed choke to start back up and ran on only one side the 3 minutes it took to get home, then quit when I made it.  It sat for a couple of weeks, as I haven't had the time to mess with things.  I replaced the hose clamps on what I think are the intake manifolds (the rubber/metal boots connecting the heads and the carbs).  It still puttered to near death until I poured in a couple ounces of Sea Foam.  It then ran great for the day, but did the single cylinder problem the next day as I mentioned earlier.

This may be an easy problem to figure out for someone who has experience doing this sort of work, but this bike is the first engine I've worked on, and don't know anyone around here who works on their own bike.  I appreciate all your help.  Thank you.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-08-2008, 7:52 AM
That was a huge help Greg, thank you very much!

I checked my battery with the bike off and it read ~11.  I then checked it with the bike on and it bumped up to ~12ish, maybe 12.5.

Next will be the stator.  I'll read over that site and get on it.

Again, thank you for your time and help!

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Graywolfs02 07-08-2008, 8:20 AM
Glad to have been a help

When you go to check the stator, use the "Ohms" section on your meter. You'll be using it as a continuity checker and not so much as looking for the resistance of the stator.

Do this with the engine shut off .

Connect the meter leads to any two of the lugs in the connector (has three yellow wire, found under the seat) and watch for that "full scale deflection" I mentioned in the previous post.

If you have the full deflection that is good, shows that  the wires in and to the stator are good.

Now connect one lead to anyone of the lugs in the connector and connect the other lead to any metal part on the bike ( frame, engine block, etc).
If you have NO needle movement or deflection that is good!!  

However, if you do show needle movement that is BAD !! 

Showing a reading from the connector to "ground" means that the stator has gone bad and is no longer charging....which means engine out R/R.

Let us know what you find...if it is the worst case, many here (me included) can give you guidance on the R&R of the stator.

Greg

1978 CX 500
Minnesota

Ride Safe, Ride Fast, Ride Far

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 07-08-2008, 1:35 PM
 Gotfalls wrote:
That was a huge help Greg, thank you very much!

I checked my battery with the bike off and it read ~11.  I then checked it with the bike on and it bumped up to ~12ish, maybe 12.5.

Next will be the stator.  I'll read over that site and get on it.

Again, thank you for your time and help!


As previously stated if below 13.5v @ idle there is a fault with the charging system.both my CXs are at around 14.2v at 1100 rpm.


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Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-09-2008, 12:53 PM
By charging system you mean stator/alternator right?  I'm not excited about getting into that.

I did that stator test on the blue/white wires and it showed 70v on white and 90v on blue.  My battery is still reading 11v with the bike not running.  I also did the ohms test you mentioned, Greg, and got full deflection on two of the wire lugs and full deflection on wire/ground.  The strange thing is that I also got full deflection just touching the copper CDI box and a head...

When my replacement coils come, I'll put them on, but if the stator reads low like that, does it mean I have to rewind it?  I don't have the finances to have it done, so I'll be doing it per help on here, and hopefully some family help...but I still don't look forward to it.

As for taking out the engine, what will I need to do that?

I keep reading that if I need to rewind the stator I might as well replace a bunch of other stuff while I'm at it.  What is extremely necessary?

Thank you again for the help.  I feel better knowing that I'm getting somewhere.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Graywolfs02 07-09-2008, 1:12 PM
Depending on the milage on your bike the recommended items to repair are:

Cam chain and tensioner

Mechanical seal @ water pump

And doing the stator with  the above equals the infamous "Triple Bypass"

How old is the battery? I put in a new on before I started to test anything (that is recommended by the Honda manual) also if battery is relatively new, is the fluid level where it is supposed to be at the marks on the battery (add only distilled water if needed)?

You should still do the continuity check to ground mentioned above by Shep and myself. You then  will have a definite  idea about good/bad condition of the stator.
Since you've done the blue/white wire test, the three yellow wire stator connector is next to the blue/white connector.

Greg

 

1978 CX 500
Minnesota

Ride Safe, Ride Fast, Ride Far

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-09-2008, 9:31 PM
I did actually do both tests.  Since I've never done this stuff before I may not be understanding perfectly, but I did check the three yellow wires for continuity.  They gave full deflection.  I am assuming I am supposed to do this with the ignition on, right?

After reading over some stuff about the triple bypass I'm wondering if that other stuff is due.  The bike only has 20k miles on it.  From what I've read I still have quite a few to go before I need to change the chain and stuff.  I'm really just wanting to get the bike running asap so that I can get a good summer out of it.  Once winter comes around I plan to park it and paint.  If I can get 2 years out of it I will hopefully be ready to spend the time and money on new chain/tensioner and seals as mentioned.

If I'm wrong and should just do it now, please tell me, but I'd really like to wait if it's not necessary.  I don't mind taking the engine apart more than once every couple of years...I want the experience!

Oh yes, two other questions, sorry!  I don't have a fuse next to my solenoid.  My bike has electrically run...obviously not perfectly...  As my sig says I have a 79 cx500 custom.  The other question is about my horn...it doesn't work, never has.  Where can I test to find the problem?  I thought I'd ask these at the bottom of the thread which has instructions on using a multimeter for any future onlookers.

Thank you!

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Graywolfs02 07-10-2008, 5:35 AM
 Gotfalls wrote:
I did actually do both tests.  Since I've never done this stuff before I may not be understanding perfectly, but I did check the three yellow wires for continuity.  They gave full deflection.  I am assuming I am supposed to do this with the ignition on, right?


Okay, you've checked the yellow wire connector spade to spade and you show continuity.....BUT...... did you also check from a spade in the connector to, say bolt that holds a coil on, or to the engine block itself? Doing that will show if the windings have been compromised.

If you have continuity from the yellow wire connector to "ground" (pretty much anywhere else metal on the bike) then the stator is bad and will not charge the battery.

As far as the "triple bypass", and other forum members jump in at any time, 20K is rather low.  The cam chain had a recall on it oh so many years ago and if your bike has had it done there will be three punch marks in the shape of a triangle on the motor (see below). You will find them on the motor ID "plate" on the left side (as you sit on bike) towards the bottom of the block.



I hope this is helping you Gotfalls. I went through the stator issue myself, I was just "lucky" that A:  it happened at the end of the riding season and B:  I had found this site and met guys like Randall-in-MLPS and R80Dave and drneo and so on......

Take heart, as some have posted on this thread, these bikes are not hard to work on and just keep asking you questions here on the forum....you will find the answers.

Greg

1978 CX 500
Minnesota

Ride Safe, Ride Fast, Ride Far

Re: Electrical issue?


RichNCT 07-10-2008, 9:17 AM
The cam chain adjuster recall only applied to 1978s.
Born to be relatively wild

Re: Electrical issue?


Graywolfs02 07-10-2008, 9:41 AM
 RichNCT wrote:
The cam chain adjuster recall only applied to 1978s.


THanks Rich....I guess I had forgotten about that  

Greg

1978 CX 500
Minnesota

Ride Safe, Ride Fast, Ride Far

Re: Electrical issue?


Ayal 07-12-2008, 8:31 PM
Faulty horn:  open the case around the switch as much as you can and spray contact cleaner (No oil or WD40) in there.
Grab the button with your fingertipe and push it in and turn to loosen any rust.
That got mine to work, but it works best once the charging system was fixed (Some hint there maybe)
Stator check:  Do all tests with the bike off and the key out of the ignition.
Most important stator check:  When you touch any of the male pins on the yellow wires coming out of the motor, and check Ohms to the engine block ("ground', do you get any reading?  If yes, then you have a problem.  The death of a stator can be caused by running the bike too hot, or gas or coolant getting into the oil and blowing the insulation of the oil, or just age (say 30,000 miles depends on the rider and care)
Suggestion:  Since you will, at some point, be reading voltage across the battery while riding - consider going to WalMart and for $25 buy a digital multimeter, so the reading is clear when you ride, and there are less vibration-sensitive components in the meter.

Strive to learn something new every day

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-14-2008, 7:08 AM
I did check the stator with the bike off and got the same deflection to 0 on all three male connectors of the 3 yellow wires when I touch it with the positive cable of the multimeter and touch the engine head or negative battery terminal.

Here's the real problem now.  I get nothing when I turn the key.  There's no power, no lights, nothing.  I checked the battery, and surprisingly enough the battery shows 11.5-12 volts (more than before?).

Help please!  My manual doesn't give a troubleshooting section on No Power.

I checked the connections and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.  I have reconnected everything to no avail.

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


fll1441 07-14-2008, 7:17 AM
Check the main fuse. On my 82 CX500, it is under the left side cover next to the battery.
1982 CX500 Custom

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-14-2008, 7:27 AM
Yah, there is no fuse there.  I'll take a picture so you see I'm not lying.

I did find that the fuse to the brake light is popped.  I'll replace that when I get to the store, but would that cause this?

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Anonymous 07-14-2008, 8:34 AM
Something got grounded somewhere...and the search starts!

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-14-2008, 1:38 PM
Alright, I bought a digital multimeter.  I tested my battery and it reads 12.25, so my battery is good, which makes me feel good, but now I'm trying to figure out what you mean by testing for ground?  If I use the continuity tester on the male connectors to that 3 yellow wire group I get a lot of numbers, then it trickles down to 001, sometimes bouncing around with odd numbers, like 215...

The multimeter came with a few directions, and I followed them for the test above, but I'm confused about the results.  And regardless of if my stator is bad I'd like to be able to ride my bike to work tomorrow, as it's "Ride to work day."

Could anyone tell me how to test the electrical circuits on my bike to find out where my problem lies that my bike is getting absolutely no juice?  If I test anywhere on the frame, including the bolt that holds the gas tank to the frame, with the positive cable, and use the negative cable on the engine heads or negative battery terminal, I get the numbers as mentioned above.  Not sure if that info helps...

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


fll1441 07-14-2008, 3:07 PM
I just looked in the service manual and it shows the main fuse on the 79 next to the battery. Unless it has been removed (or jumped) by a PO, it should be there. Standing on the left side facing the bike it should be to the right of the battery. It will be inside a rectangular plastic case that snaps open. Do you have something like that under the left cover?
1982 CX500 Custom

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 07-14-2008, 3:23 PM
ht, I bought a digital multimeter.  I tested my battery and it reads 12.25, so my battery is good, which makes me feel good, but now I'm trying to figure out what you mean by testing for ground?  If I use the continuity tester on the male connectors to that 3 yellow wire group I get a lot of numbers, then it trickles down to 001, sometimes bouncing around with odd numbers, like 215...

This is correct.There should be continuity between all 3 spade connectors in the Yellow wire block.If there isn't then there's a break in one of the coils.

With one end of the multimeter attached to any of the Yellow wire Block spade connectors and touched to the frame there should be the opposite e.g an,"Open" circuit/NO conitnuity otherwise the couls/stator is shorting to ground.

Could anyone tell me how to test the electrical circuits on my bike to find out where my problem lies that my bike is getting absolutely no juice?  If I test anywhere on the frame, including the bolt that holds the gas tank to the frame, with the positive cable, and use the negative cable on the engine heads or negative battery terminal, I get the numbers as mentioned above.  Not sure if that info helps...

See other post.Check that you have a fuse block or in-line fuse near the battery?


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Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-14-2008, 3:44 PM

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


fll1441 07-14-2008, 5:12 PM
Normally, it would be in that empty holder behind the starter relay. I guess it was removed by a PO. I don't know what to suggest. Hopefully, more advice will be on the way from some other members.
1982 CX500 Custom

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 07-14-2008, 6:36 PM
There's definitely something wrong there as you say.There should be a fuse in that holder unless the PO has moved it to somewhere else on the bike but I wouldn't know why anyone would do that as you want it near the battery as it's the Main fuse.


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Re: Electrical issue?


Ayal 07-14-2008, 6:52 PM
Suggestion for the ride-to-work day:  something to try (I'm going out on a limb here)
Leave the three-yellow-wire plug unplugged, start the bike, see if you get electricity (Lights and signal).
If you have juice, and you MUST have your signals working or risk a hefty fine and bad driving record...
This way you can ride up to 25-30 miles on a good battery, recharge it over work hours, and ride it back.
Do not repeat as a commuter as the battery will become weak and leave you stranded without starter somewhere.

Strive to learn something new every day

Re: Electrical issue?


Randall-in-Mpls 07-14-2008, 9:21 PM
Now would be a good time to install a blade-type fuse holder.  I did this mod a couple weeks ago, but haven't written it up yet.

The parts are just a few dollars at Radio Shack (less than $5, if I remember right.).



Your PO has removed the old fuse holder, joined the two ends, and pulled up the red heat resistant sheath the cover it.  Pull the sheath down, undo the join, and splice in the new fuse holder.  (You'll need to cut a good bit of excess wire off the fuse holder.)  I also cut some hard rubber blocks to hold it in the original clips, but that's optional.




Hope that helps.

R


'78 CX500 - The Black Maggot

CX500 Factory Service Manual
1978 CX500 Parts Manual

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-14-2008, 9:31 PM
I'll definately do that as soon as I can get to an electronics store/radio shack.

Would I be wrong to hope that simply installing this will get my bike to at least give me lights again?

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Blindstitch2002 07-14-2008, 9:42 PM
Randal
Any reason why you used the blade fuse holder instead of the other fuse type. Just wondering since the other two fuses on the bike are still the cylinder type. I was thinking of going with the blades when I did mine but thought it was easier to have all the same type of fuse.

1978 Honda Cx500 Maggot
1979 Honda Cx500 Custom
1980 Honda Cx500 Deluxe Couch Project Bike

CX500 Factory Service Manual
Courtesy of Randall-in-Mpls

Re: Electrical issue?


hakko808 07-14-2008, 10:23 PM
main reason I can see to use blade type adaptor is that the cylindrical adaptors readily availiable do not have heavy enough wire to handle 30A.

Re: Electrical issue?


Shep 07-15-2008, 5:53 AM
 Gotfalls wrote:
I'll definately do that as soon as I can get to an electronics store/radio shack.

Would I be wrong to hope that simply installing this will get my bike to at least give me lights again?


It may not cure the problem but needs doing anyway and whilst working on it may lead you in the right direction.

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Re: Electrical issue?


RichNCT 07-15-2008, 9:28 AM
I did not find the blade type in 30 amp rated either.  Randall's pic shows the 20 amp.  The original is 30 amp.  This is less likely to be a problem on CXs, but on GLs with a greater liklihood of touring accessories it may be.
Born to be relatively wild

Re: Electrical issue?


Randall-in-Mpls 07-15-2008, 2:08 PM
The original fuse in the CX (the '78, at least) is 20 amp.  The blade-type fuses are supposedly more durable and easier to find at a gas station if you're stuck somewhere.  This mod is really more useful on the GLs, which use a 30 amp uncased fusible link that tends to deteriorate over time.  It'd be a lot easier on the GL, too.  Just clamp the wires under the screws that held the link.

Radioshack.com shows 30 amp blade fuses, and the holder is rated for 30 amp, so it makes sense that they'd be available somewhere.

The accessory fuses on the handlebar are 10 amp, so you need to carry two different spares anyway.  I hadn't considered replacing those, but maybe I'll look into it.  Ideally I'd find a two-fuse block that would fit under the cover.  It wouldn't need to be weather-proof like the one by the battery.  Hmm, gears are turning...

R


'78 CX500 - The Black Maggot

CX500 Factory Service Manual
1978 CX500 Parts Manual

Re: Electrical issue?


RichNCT 07-15-2008, 2:42 PM
Thanks Randall, I'll look at the Shack.  I was looking at NAPA before.
Born to be relatively wild

Re: Electrical issue?


Gotfalls 07-17-2008, 1:56 PM
I'm going to have some time tomorrow to work on my bike, but I really don't know how to find the problem.  I have the parts ready to add the blade fuse as mentioned above, but I doubt this will fix anything, as there wasn't a fuse before. 

Let me reiterate my problem.  I turn the key and get nothing.  In fact, I left the key in the on position overnight and the battery didn't lose anything.  The battery is connected tightly.  I checked voltage on the positive side of the solenoid and there's a full connection there, but nothing on the other side.  Any guidance here would be most appreciated.

I'm trying to read up on testing electrical issues on Dan's Motorcycle Repair site, but for some reason no one ever mentions getting absolutely no juice.

A little background so you don't have to read this entire post to know the history here:
I've had electrical problems that I've been trying to nail down, so I tested the stator connection (3 yellow wires) as well as the blue and white wires.  I may have problems with my stator, and I understand that.
I also disassembled the cut-off switch box to install a new throttle grip (which turned out to be the wrong type for this bike).  I used some brushes to shine up the bike (looks great now).
That's all I've done since it's been sitting in the garage.  I tested the yellow wires with the ignition on before I read that I was supposed to do it with the bike off.  I don't have a primary fuse, so I'll be adding one.

I'm looking forward to any ideas, and any information about how to perform these tests.  Thank you.  It'd be a great birthday present to get my bike running again!

-1979 CX500 Custom - "Doc"

Re: Electrical issue?


Randall-in-Mpls 07-17-2008, 2:07 PM
 Gotfalls wrote:
I checked voltage on the positive side of the solenoid and there's a full connection there, but nothing on the other side.

You've got a break in the circuit somewhere.  Check for continuity between the negative battery post and the frame.  If not, start tracing that negative lead.

R


'78 CX500 - The Black Maggot

CX500 Factory Service Manual
1978 CX500 Parts Manual

Re: Electrical issue?


fll1441 07-17-2008, 4:33 PM
I would start by checking the ignition switch. Spray some contact cleaner in there and work the switch a couple of times.
1982 CX500 Custom

Re: Electrical issue?


roadster5580 07-17-2008, 5:25 PM
Did I read in this thread where you reported 70V on the white wire and 90V on the blue

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