Monoshock top bolt trick?

Technical Help Forum

Monoshock top bolt trick?

kenglong 07-19-2008, 3:55 PM
Is there a trick to getting the top mounting bolt back in the monoshock? I was unable to hold the shock in place while attempting to insert the bolt (it's a very tight space in there) so I then tried reinstalling the pro-link assy then the monoshock thinking that would hold it in place while I attempt to insert the bolt. Ahh, not so easy, me thinks.

When I took that top bolt out, I thought it might be a pain to put back in and, yep, it is. Will I have to remove the airbox after all?

Ken in Albuquerque
'83 GL650 Silverwing

Re: Monoshock top bolt trick?

chip 07-19-2008, 4:36 PM

I didn't have to. It's been awhile, but from looking at the bike, it looks like I probably grabbed the bottom of the shock, lifted it up into place, and slid the bolt in.This is assuming none of the Prolink suspension parts have been reinstalled and are in the way. I don't recall it being difficult on my bike. Sorry I'm of no more help than that...

Re: Monoshock top bolt trick?

kenglong 07-19-2008, 5:04 PM
Thanks, Chip. I removed the battery box so I could see what was going on and I used a floor jack to lift the rear drive housing and slide the mount into place so I could insert the bolt. (I had the pro-link all assembled and in place but not tightened up .) Once I could see the top of the shock sliding into the mounting flange, I was fine. Chalk it up to inexperience. Once I did it, it was easy.

Ken in Albuquerque
'83 GL650 Silverwing

Re: Monoshock top bolt trick?

RustyTec 07-19-2008, 8:23 PM

I started to remove the battery, box for removal of the top bolt, but I remembered that the starter had to come out for that. (At least for this newbie). I chose the air-box because I thought it easier and less intrusive to the engine. Yet you do have to play rough with some 27 yo rubber parts. -- It is odd that you can choose.

I’m impressed: You posted this question, bypassed the problem, and posted the results in 1 hour and 9 minutes. -- It would have taken me longer to do just the posts.

So the swivel socket worked well for removal but maybe not so good for replacement. I think the ‘jury is still out’ till this thread lives its life.

I just used big wood shims to lift the rear tire while the center-stand was tied forward.

Good job!

RustyTec on a ’81 GL500.
She’s not my bike. I’m just her current boyfriend. -
She gets everything that she needs, and most of what she wants. - Works for us.

Re: Monoshock top bolt trick?

kenglong 07-20-2008, 7:40 PM
I did use the swivel socket to tighten up that top bolt but I used needle nose pliers to get it in there in the first place.

Got it all back together today and test rode it for a few miles. It sure feels tighter now and it handles much more predictably. I like it! Can't wait for the new tires to break in so I can give it a real run!

This maintenance session included new tires front and rear. The Dunlop D404s I bought last year were good tires but they wore out fast. This time I put Metzeler ME880 Marathons on front and rear. Also did the brakes. The rear brake actually has some stopping power now! The new front pads still need to get worked in. The stopping power up front is a little light right now. My front pads used to squeal somthing terrible everytime I used them. The new pads are nice and quiet. I beveled the edges and used some anti-squeal spray on the back of the new pads.

Lastly, the squeak/click noise from the rear suspension is gone! It nice and quiet...and smooth! Now I can hear the little squeak from the rear brake adjuster and the rattle of the rear pegs. Gotta get some fiber washers. That should quiet things down a bit.

Ken in Albuquerque
'83 GL650 Silverwing